Lost Wax and Custom Design

Custom jewelry manufacturing is a highlight at Bell's. With the process of “lost wax” casting, custom design jewelry is made in the store with the customer's old gold. This unique service saves the customers' money and rewards them with a “one of a kind” piece.

The Lost Wax Process
The origins of the lost wax process are shrouded in antiquity, but it has been used for thousands of years to produce objects in metal which could not be produced any other way, due to the complexity of their form. It permits anything that can be modeled in wax to be transformed into metal, and is still used today for fine jewelry.

Measurements are taken and the design is first scratched in the surface of the wax model. As in most sculpture the material that is not needed is removed. Saws, files, and specialized carving tools are used to cut away the wax and sculpt the design of the piece.  Wax can also be added to the design using a special wax heating tool.
 
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry   Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry   Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry   Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry   Bell's Jewelry
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry   Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry   Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry   Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry

Measurements are taken and the design is first scratched in the surface of the wax model. As in most sculpture the material that is not needed is removed. Wax can also be added to the design using a special wax heating tool. After the design is carved sprues, or wax wires, are added which will be attached to a flexible rubber base. The wax is weighed and multiplied by a factor to see how much gold or sterling silver will be needed to make a complete cast. The wax model is then attached to the rubber base using the wax sprues. More than one model can be attached to each base if needed. A metal flask is then put into the rubber base and surrounds the wax.
     
Investing
Investment is a white powder, used in casting, that is mixed with water. The investment and water is combined using exact proportions, stirred and then poured into the metal flask. This material is semi-liquid when first mixed and it engulfs the wax model and sprues. It is then left for an hour to harden. After that time the wax model and sprues are encased inside the hardened investment.

The rubber base is removed and the flask containing the wax is placed in a burnout oven. This burnout process takes about six to twelve hours to complete and reaches a maximum temperature of 1350 degrees Fahrenheit. The wax model is destroyed by this extreme heat.  The flask is taken out of the oven and molten gold or sterling silver is immediately poured into the investment where the wax model once was. A vacuum machine is used to assist. The sprues now act as channels for the molten metal which then cools and hardens.
 
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry   Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry   Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry
Lost Wax and Custom Design at Bell's Jewelry  
     
Finishing
The sprues are sawed off and the metal design is smoothed with files and then sanded. The piece is polished and given any finishes that are needed. Any gemstones are then set in the custom made ring, pin or pendant. This completes the ancient custom jewelry making process know as lost wax casting. The results is a finished handcrafted piece that will always have special meaning to the person that wears it.
 
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Custom jewelry made from old gold   Diamonds and gemstones at Bell's